Diy Wedding dress - My tips and tricks

Project of the year 

Front view of the dress

A few months ago a very dear and close person to me asked, if I could sew her wedding dress. She had found one she liked (not loved), but it was way over her budget, with all the alterations the dress would need.

I was overjoyed and I had time to sew and I really wanted to take on a challenging project this year. So I promised to go through my pattern stash and see if I had any patterns she loved.

Pattern and buying fabrics

Tip #1: Knowing your pattern stash helps a lot and at least here in Finland sewing magazines have wedding-themed clothes in 2-3 years intervals. I just tried to find all the wedding dress patterns I had in my stash, if I hadn't found any dresses that the bride liked, my next step would've been to alter ballgowns or other party dress patterns to a wedding dress.  

And the back looks amazing!!

So after skimming through probably three different magazines, we found this gorgeous lace and satin dress from an issue of Burdastyle (3/2017). 

The bride loved it immediately, she loved the full hem and the lace neckline and it gave serious royalty vibes.

We decided on that pattern and then we went shopping for fabrics and everything else the pattern required.

Tip #2: I should've sewn the first mock-up before buying the dress fabric

Luckily, the pattern looked amazing on the bride with all the alterations. But if the pattern had been awful and I had already bought all the materials, that would have been an expensive disaster.

We had to visit four different fabric stores to find everything we needed, I'm not sure if that is a lot though. Let's just say that the end of the summer is not the best time to buy wedding dress fabric. 

Pure white lace with a scalloped edge was the hardest fabric to find, there were off-whites and red and green, but not white.

We estimated the cost for supplies to be about 150-180 euros, and that was quite close to the initial supplies. There were additional costs down the road so budgeting an extra 50 euros would've given us more accurate amount. E.g. At first I thought that covering buttons would be the best option, but those turned out ugly -> I had to go buy new buttons (about 32 euros).  But I can re-

purpose those uncovered buttons later, so it is not a complete loss.

Tip #3: Be prepared to change plans if needed and budget some extra money for those changes. 

Mock-ups and pattern alterations 

The 2nd mock-up

In my opinion, wedding dresses require multiple mock-ups. I made two mock-ups for the bodice and three for the lace top. 

I started with the original pattern in the bride-to-be's size. 

I'm glad we didn't have to adjust the length of the bodice, but other alterations were needed:

- I had to raise the neckline for about 1,5cm (0.5 inches).

- Move the seam of the middle front piece.

- Add a dart to the neckline, so that it would flop and it would sit properly 

- I added 1cm extra fabric to the back, by cutting the back piece with a 1,5cm seam allowance, but sewed the zipper with a 1cm seam allowance 

Trick #1: I used a contrasting color pen to mark my alterations to the mock-up and fabric with even squares, it was so much easier to measure the needed alterations to the pattern pieces.

The second mock-up 

I learned from my own wedding dress project, that the second mock-up can end up being much better than originally thought. So I decided to take a risk and sew it from a proper dress fabric and include lining.

The second mock-up fit like a glove with all the alterations and we even called it our emergency wedding dress, in case something would happen to the end result.

Sewing the Dress

Bodice pieces

After sewing the second mock-up, I cut out all the pieces from the duchess satin and lining and sewed
the bodice, the hem and the lining according to the instructions. I even remembered to use my pinking shears to cut out the pieces from the satin.

 And of course, we added pockets to the side seams .

The lace/mesh top

This was absolutely the most difficult part of the pattern. I made the first mock-up and it didn't fit at all, the arms didn't have enough movement and the shoulders were too wide. 

Raising the shoulders was easy, but getting enough movement to the shoulders was difficult.

I googled how-to videos and finally called my sewing friend who had helped me to sew my own wedding dress.

Final lace mock-up

Here is what I did with the lace bodice:

- I discussed with the bride-to-be, how much the shoulders need movement. We concluded that it would be enough to be able to hug the guests -> so about 90-100 degrees was our goal

- I raised the armpit about 1,5cm (I didn't think it would work but it did)

- I lowered the curve of the sleeve by about 0.5cm

- I had to check the fit of the sleeve twice to the front and back piece (on paper)

- And bought a proper lace fabric to test these out

In the end, the top also fit and I could it from the fabric, three times, well the front three times, and the back pieces twice. 

Why?  Because I didn't check the alignment of the lace flowers at first and the bride-to-be wanted to include the flowers on the scalloped edge to the bodice, and 2nd I screwed up the center front by 1cm, so the flower was off-center and it looked bad. Also, the placement of bust darts was better when the dart was hidden in a flower, it didn't show as much when the dart wash sewn to a place where there was only mesh.

So, check, double, and triple-check your pieces before cutting 

 I haven't sewn lace or mesh in ages, my old sewing machine would rip the fabric to pieces and I have to admit that I was a bit scared of how my machine would handle a delicate fabric. In the end, it worked really well. 

The mesh/lace felt quite itchy in the seams when worn and the pattern instructions said to use organza, but it also felt too scratchy. I made French seams for the shoulder seams and side seams because that seam was visible and for sleeves and to finish off center back for buttons, I covered the seam allowances in satin bias tape. It is much softer against the skin. I didn't do any finishing for the armholes, the satin bias tape would show and other options were too scratchy. I just told the bride to be careful when moving her arms.

The neckline

The neckline

This is where I had the most trouble. It was difficult to get the uneven scalloped edge to align with the neckline perfectly. I had holes between the pieces, some floppy places in the edges and the fabric had an extra fold at one place. I'm so glad I can adjust the speed of my machine very easily and this time my machine was in its slowest setting.

I had to use a seam ripper for the extra fold and I ended up with a hole in the main fabric, not good. I fixed the hole by sewing a small flower from the extra fabric to cover the hole. It really worked and I don't think anyone even noticed my fix.  I fixed floppy places with invisible hand stitches, the bride had to endure me folding and pinning all the floppy places, while she was wearing the dress. But it was totally worth it.

I love the buttons :)

I found this subtitled tutorial very helpful when sewing the neckline

The buttons

At first, I decided to make the button loops and the buttons myself, but the covered buttons looked
awful, and lost my tutorial on how to make elastic button loops. So I had to change to premade elastic loops and pearly white buttons and I'm glad I did. 

This tutorial helped with the buttons

The rest of the dress

After sewing the lace top, I finished sewing the hem. 

The only problem I had, was the placement of the front pleats. I think I redid the pleats four or five times, before finally getting the placement symmetrically enough in relation to the bodice. I'm surprised how well the lace took the ripping of the seam and in the end the seam was covered with a blue ribbon belt, so the unevenness didn't show.

Tip #4: Don't be a perfectionist. Sometimes the mistakes will only turn worse if you use the seam ripper too many times. I don't think the lace could take any more turns with the seam ripper and there are mistakes that can be quite easily covered. Like the hole in the mesh or a bit wonky pleat on the waist.

The zipper

I used an invisible zipper and I got it right the first time. 

Trick #2 I highly recommend using an invisible zipper foot and both basting and pinning the zipper in place before sewing. And turn the speed of you down if needed.

Hemming

I had to shorten the hem about 10cm /4 inches in the front and I intentionally left the back hem longer. I used double-sided fusible interfacing to turn the hem and when it didn't hold, I sewed the hem by hand with invisible stitches.

The final result 

What did I learn? 

Many new sewing skills: I've never made French seams before and this was the first time I tried plastic boning in the top, it wasn't nearly as difficult as I first suspected. I gained confidence in my pattern modification skills and now I know that I can tackle even harder fabrics with my machine. 

The dress wasn't sewn perfectly, but in the end, it didn't matter that much. Dim autumn lightning certainly helped a lot and there were ways to cover little mistakes so that you wouldn't even notice them.

The bride was so happy with her dress and I think her wedding day was just perfect. The dress fit perfectly and didn't tear, only her hair got stuck in the top buttons (but no buttons were lost when fixing that). She was so happy with how pretty the sleeves turned out and I think a long-sleeved dress was perfect for an autumn wedding.  And who doesn't love these sleeves?

Seepra - Ilmainen neuleohje

 Seepra – neuleohje

 

Alkuperäinen seepraohje on vuodelta 2009 ja tässä on siitä nyt sitten päivitetty ja suomennettu versio. Ohjetta ei ole testattu, joten kerro jos virheitä tai epäselvyyksiä löytyy. Voit valmistaa ohjeillani leluja myyntiin, mutta ethän myy ohjetta itseään 😊

 

Tarvikkeet

Mustaa ja valkoista DK-vahvuista puuvillalankaa

Neulepuikot 3mm (Itse tein tämän version käyttämällä 2,5mm puikkoja ja niihin sopivaa lankaa)

Täytettä

Turvasilmät

Kanavaneula

 

Jalat (neulotaan tasona, neulo 2)

Luo mustalla langalla 10s ja neulo 1krs nurin.

Seur. krs: 2o, [lisäys, 1o], toista [_] krs loppuun.1krs nurin.

Seur. krs: 3o, [lisäys, 3o], toista [_] krs loppuun. 1krs nurin.

Aloita nurjalla krs:llä neulo sileää 5krs.

Seur. krs: 6o, [ylivetokav, 1o] kahdesti, 2oyht, 1o, 2oyht, 6o.

Seur. krs: 5n, 2nyht kahdesti, 1n, 2nyht kahdesti, 5n.

Seur. krs: 6o, nosta 1s neulomatta, 2oyht, vedä neulomatta nostettu silmukka yli, 6o.

Vaihda valkoiseen lankaan ja neulo sileää 21 krs, vuorotellen mustaa ja valkoista lankaa 2krs:n välein niin, että muodostuu raidat.

Päätä silmukat.

Ompele takasaumat ja täytä jalat hyvin.

 

Kädet (neulotaan tasona, neulo 2kpl)

Luo valkoisella langalla 12s ja aloittaen n krs:llä neulo sileää 18krs, vuorottele mustia ja valkoisia kerroksia aina 2krs:n välein, niin että muodostuu raidat. Vaihda työhön musta lanka ja neulo sileää 5krs.

Seur. krs: 2oyht koko kierros loppuun.

Katkaise lanka ja vedä se silmukoiden läpi, kiristä ja ompele käden sauma. Täytä kädet napakasti.

 

Vartalo (neulotaan tasona, neulo 1kpl)

Luo mustalla langalla 21 s. Neulo 1krs nurin.

Seur.krs: 1o, [lisäys, 4o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Neulo 1krs nurin.

Seur.krs: 1o, [lisäys, 5o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Neulo 1krs nurin.

Seur.krs: 1o, [lisäys, 6o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Aloita n kerroksella ja neulo sileää 13krs.

Seur.krs: [2o yht, 4o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Neulo 1krs.

Seur.krs: [2o yht, 3o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Neulo 1krs.

Seur. krs: 2o yht koko kerros.

Katkaise lanka ja vedä se silmukoiden läpi, kiristä ja päättele lanka. Ompele vartalon takasauma, täytä vartalo napakasti. Ompele jalat kiinni vartalon alareunaan ja ompele samalla vartalon alasauma. Voit käyttää langanpätkiä seepran hännän tekemiseen.

 

Pää (neulotaan tasona, neulo 1)

Luo 13s mustalla langalla. Neulo 1krs nurin. Vuorottele mustia ja valkoisia kerroksia, niin että muodostuu raidat. Voit jatkaa raitoja koko ajan, itse neuloin turvan kärjen mustalla.

Seur.krs: 1o, [lisäys, 1o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Neulo 1krs nurin.

Seur.krs: 1o, [lisäys, 3o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Neulo 1krs nurin.

Seur.krs: 1o, [lisäys, 4o] toista [_] krs loppuun. Neulo 1krs nurin.

Seur.krs: 1o, [lisäys, 5o] toista [_] krs loppuun.

Neulo sileää 11krs.

Seur.krs: 1o, [2o yht, 1o] toista [_] viimeiseen kahteen s:ään asti. Neulo 1krs.

Seur.krs: 1o, [2o yht, 2o] toista [_] viimeiseen kahteen s:ään asti. Neulo 7krs.

Seur. krs: 2o yht koko kerros.

Katkaise lanka ja vedä se silmukoiden läpi, kiristä ja päättele lanka. Täytä kuono. Voit muotoilla kuonoa kavennuskierrosten kohdalla käyttäen lankaa apuna. Kiinnitä turvasilmät. Sulje takasauma ompelemalla. Täytä pää napakasti ja päättele takaraivo. Kiinnitä pää vartaloon ompelemalla se tukevasti paikoilleen. Ompele kädet kiinni vartalon sivuille. Voit tehdä suun ja sieraimet kirjomalla ne ruskealla langalla.

Korvat (neulotaan tasona, neulo 2)

Luo msutalla 6s, neulo 1krs o.

Seur.krs: 1o, lisäys, neulo viimeiseen s:ään, lisäys, 1o. 1 krs o. Toista edelliset 2krs vielä kerran.

Seur.krs: Ylivetokav, neulo viimeiseen 2 s:ään, 2o yht.1krs o. Toista edelliset 2krs kunnes on enää 2s jäljellä. Katkaise lanka ja vedä se jäljellä olevien s:ien läpi. Päättele lanka.

Kiinnitä korvat päähän sopivalle kohdalle. Voit tehdä harjan solmimalla langanpätkiä korvien välistä aina pään alareunaan saakka.

Zackie Zebra - free knitting pattern - updated version

 Zackie Zebra (free knitting pattern) – Updated version

I'm still going through my old patterns in this blog and Ravelry store and this time I made an update/a revised version of my 2009 Zackie pattern.

I changed the head shape and knitted ears. The pattern isn't tested so, please tell me if you find any errors. 

You need:
Knitting needles size 2,5mm
Black and white cotton yarn (Svarta Fåret's Tilda is what I use the most often)
Stuffing
Tapestry needle
Black yarn to embroider the face and safety eyes

 

Legs (make 2, Legs are worked flat)
Cast on with black 10 sts. P 1 row.
Next row: K2, [m1, k1] repeat [_] to the end. P1 row.
Next row: K3, [m1, k3] repeat [_] to the end.
St-st 5 rows.
Next row: K6, [skpo, k1] twice, k2tog, k1, k2tog, K6
Next row: P5, p2tog twice, p1, p2tog twice, p5.
Next row: K6, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k6.
Change to white and begin with a P row, st-st 23 rows, and change colors after two rows to make stripes.
Cast off.

Sew the back seam of the leg and stuff it firmly. I had to stitch a few stitches by hand, to tighten the decrease rows, to hide the polyester filling.

 Knit the other leg the same way. Leave the legs aside to wait.

Arms (make 2, arms are worked flat)
With the white cast on 12 sts.
Beginning with P row st-st for 18 rows, change colors after two rows to make stripes.
Use black and continue in st-st for 5 rows.
Next row: k2tog to the end.
Break off the yarn and pull the yarn through the remaining stitches. Stuff the arms firmly.

 

Body (worked in flat):
With the white yarn cast on 21sts. P1 row.
Next row: K1, [m1, k4] repeat [_] to the end. Change to black (from now make stripes for 2rows) P1row.
Next row: K1, [m1, k5] repeat [_]to the end. P1 row.
Next row: K1, [m1, k6] repeat [_] to the end.
St-st 13 rows.
Next row: [k2tog, k4] repeat [_]to the end. P1row.
Next row: [k2tog, k3] repeat [_] to the end. P1 row.
Next row: [k2tog], knit [_] to the end.
Break off the yarn and pull yarn through the stitches that are left on the needle. Sew the back seam of the body and stuff. Sew the legs to the bottom of the body and close the bottom seam of the body at the same time.

Head (worked both flat, make 1)

Cast on 13 sts with black yarn (alternate colors to make stripes, I used black for the last 7 rows of the nose). P 1row.
Next row: K1, [m1, k1] knit [_] to the end. P 1row.
Next row: K1, [m1, k3] knit [_]to the end. P 1row.
Next row: K1, [m1, k4] knit [_] to the end. P 1row.

Next row: K1, [m1, k5] knit [_] to the end. St-st for 11 rows.

Next row: K1, [k2tog, k1] to the end [_]. P1 row.

Next row: K1, [k2tog, k2] to the end. St-st 7 rows.
Next row: K2tog to the end.

Break off the yarn and pull the yarn through the remaining stitches. Sew the back seam and add safety eyes and stuff the head firmly. Sew head to the top of the body firmly. Sew arms to the sides of the.

Ears (make 2, worked flat)

Cast on 6 sts with black. K1 row

Next row: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1. K1 row. Repeat these two rounds once more.

Next row: SKPO, knit to last to two stitches, k2 tog. K1 row. Repeat these two rounds until 2sts remain. Pull yarn through the remaining two stitches. Sew ears to the top of the head next to each other.

 

I made a mane using yarn scraps from the project, by tying them to the head, between the ears, and down to the neck. I also used yarn scraps and tied a tail to the bottom of the body, between the legs (my zebra’s tail should probably be located a few rows higher though)

K = Knit
P = Purl

st = stitch

K2tog = knit 2 stitches together, P2tog = purl 2 stitches together
M1 = Increase or make 1. You can use a technique you prefer, I use this: From the front, lift the loop between stitches with the left needle, knit into back of loop
st-st = stockinette stitch, K on the right side, P on the wrong side
CO = Cast on

P2tog=purl 2 together

psso= pass slipped stitch over

skpo = skip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over

 

©Minttusuklaa, 2023. You can sell toys made from this pattern, but please don’t sell the pattern itself. 

Heikki Hämähäkki - Ilmainen virkkausohje

 
Hei,

Tein ensimmäisen version hämähäkkiohjeesta jo v.2009, silloin tosin kuusijalkaisena ja sekä vartalo, että pää olivat pallonmuotoisia. Tähän päivitettyyn versioon muotoilin vartaloa, lisäsin nenän, silmien alle valkoiset ympyrät ja jaksoin virkata sen puuttuvan jalkaparin.

 

Tarvikkeet:

Harmaata, mustaa ja luonnonvalkoista puuvillalankaa (Käytin Drops Muskat -lankaa)

Virkkuukoukku, mikä kooltaan sopii lankaan (Käytin koko 2,5mm, mutta olisi kannattanut ottaa yhtä kokoa isompi. Mutta ei ainakaan täytteet näy läpi 😊)

Kanavaneula

Pari turvasilmiä

Täytevanua

 

Pää (Harmaa, virkkaa 1kpl)

Harmaalla 2 kjs

1)6ks toiseen kjs:ään koukusta

2)2ks jokaiseen ks:ään (12ks)

3) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään, ks seuraavaan ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 18ks)

4) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään, 1 ks seuraaviin 2 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 24ks)

5) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään,1 ks seuraaviin 3 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 30ks)

6) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään,1 ks seuraaviin 4 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 36ks)

7) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään,1 ks seuraaviin 5 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 42ks)

8-13) ks jokaiseen ks:ään.

14) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 5 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 36ks)

15) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 4 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 30ks)

16) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 3 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 24ks)

17) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 2 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 18ks)

Katkaise lanka ja vedä s:än läpi.
 

Vartalo (Harmaa)

Harmaalla 2 kjs

1)6ks toiseen kjs:ään koukusta

2)2ks jokaiseen ks:ään (12ks)

3) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään, ks seuraavaan ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 18ks)

4) ks jokaiseen ks:ään

5) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään, ks seuraavaan 2 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 24ks)

6) ks jokaiseen ks:ään

7) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään, ks seuraavaan 3 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 30ks)

8) ks jokaiseen ks:ään

9) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään, ks seuraavaan 4 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 36ks)

10) ks jokaiseen ks:ään

11) (2ks ensimmäiseen ks:ään, ks seuraavaan 5 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 42ks)

12-18) ks jokaiseen ks:ään

19) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 5 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 36ks)

20) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 4 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 30ks)

21) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 3 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 24ks)

22) (Kavennus, 1 ks seuraaviin 2 ks:ään) Toista (_) kerros ympäri. (yht 18ks)

Täytä vartalo napakasti täytevanulla.

 

Nenä (Harmaa)

Virkkaa 2 kjs

1) 6ks toiseen kjs:ään koukusta

2) ks jokaiseen ks:ään (6ks)

Ompele nenä kiinni päähän. Nenän kiinnityskohta on pään 1. kierros.

 

Silmäntaustat (Luonnonvalkoinen, virkkaa 2kpl)

Virkkaa 2 kjs

1)8ks toiseen kjs:ään koukusta. Tee 1 ps, kierroksen ensimmäiseen ks:ään.

Pujota turvasilmä läpi silmän tausta kappaleesta ja kiinnitä silmäntausta ja turvasilmi paikoilleen päähään haluamaasi kohtaan. Ompele silmäntausta muutamalla pistolla kiinni päähän ja päättele langat pään sisäpuolelle. Kiinnitä toinen silmä samoin.

(Osalla hämähäkeistä on kahdeksan silmää, joten halutessasi voit tehdä silmäntausta kappaleita enemmän ja kiinnittää päähän 😊)

Täytä pää napakasti täytevanulla, ompele pää ja vartalo kiinni toisiinsa.

 

Jalat (Musta, virkkaa 8kpl)

Virkkaa 2 kjs

1)5ks toiseen kjs:ään koukusta

2)2ks jokaiseen ks:ään (10ks)

3-19) Ks jokaiseen ks:ään.

Päätä lanka. Täytä jalat kevyesti. Ompele jalat vartalon sivulle, noin vartalon keskivaiheille. Voit muotoilla jalat koukkuasentoon ompelemalla muutaman piston jalan puoleen väliin. Halutessasi voit vielä kirjoa muutaman piston hämähäkin selkään. Kirjo halutessasi suu nenän alapuolelle. Katko vielä kaikki näkyvät langanpäät.

Valmista tuli!

p.s. saat toki valmistaa ohjeella leluja myyntiin, mutta ethän myy ohjetta. 

p.s.2 Ohjetta ei ole testautettu. joten jos löydät virheitä, kerrothan siitä minulle 😊

 

kjs = ketjusilmukka

ks = kiinteä silmukka

ps = piilosilmukka

Sammy Spiderman - updated version - free pattern

 Hello!

I made my Sammy Spiderman back in 2009, that is ages ago. He had only 6 legs, because I was too lazy to make more. For this new version, I added legs numbers 7 and 8, and also a little nose and some white around the eyes. I’m really happy, with how this little Sammy Spider turned out.

 

You need

Yarn in grey (C1), black (C2), off-white (c3)

Crochet hook

Polyester filling

Tapestry needle

A pair of safety eyes

I used DK cotton yarn (Drops Muskat) and 2,5mm hook and my toy’s body+head is about 13cm long (5.1 inches). In hindsight, I should’ve used a size larger hook, but at least the filling doesn’t show. So I suggest choosing a yarn and hook you’re comfortable with.

 

Body

Body (make 1, with C1):
Ch 2, 6sc to the 2nd ch from the hook.
1) 2sc to the every 2sc (12sc)
2) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (18 sc)

3) sc around
4) (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2sc) repeat around (24 sc)

5) sc around
6) (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3sc) repeat around (30 sc)

7) sc around
8) (sc in next sc, sc in next 4sc) repeat around (36 sc)

9) sc around

10) sc in next sc, sc in next 5sc) repeat around (42 sc)
11-17) sc in every sc
18) (sc-dec, sc in next 5sc) repeat (_) around.
19) (sc-dec, sc in next 4sc) repeat (_) around
20) (sc-dec, sc in next 3sc) repeat (_) around
21) (sc-dec, sc in next 2sc) repeat (_) aruond
Cut yarn, pull it through the stitch. Stuff

Head (make 1, with C1):

Ch 2, 6sc to the 2nd ch from the hook.
1) 2sc to the every 2sc (12sc)
2) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (18 sc)
3) (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2sc) repeat around (24 sc)
4) (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3sc) repeat around (30 sc)
5) (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4sc) repeat around (36 sc)
6) (sc in next sc, sc in next 5sc) repeat around (42 sc)

7-12) Sc around

13) (sc-dec, sc in next 5sc) repeat (_) around.
14) (sc-dec, sc in next 4sc) repeat (_) around
15) (sc-dec, sc in next 3sc) repeat (_) around
16) (sc-dec, sc in next 2sc) repeat (_) aruond

Cut yarn, and pull it through the stitch.

Nose (make 1 with C1)

Ch 2, 6sc to the 2nd ch from the hook.
1) sc to every sc (6sc)

Sew the nose securely to the middle of the spider’s face (the 1st row of the head)

 Patches for eyes (make 2 with C3)

Ch 2, 8sc to the 2nd ch from the hook, slip stitch to the 1st sc. Sew eyes to each side of the nose to the position you choose. Insert the safety eye through the patch and the head, secure both safety eyes, and with a few stitches sew the eye patch to the head and secure yarnends inside the head.

Note: Most spiders have eight eyes, and some species have 2. So if you want to you can add more than two eyes to the head 😊

After attaching the nose and eyes to the head, stuff the head firmly and sew to the body.

 

Legs(make 8, with C2)

This was the most tedious part, making 8 legs with black yarn took a while.

Ch 2, 5sc to the 2nd ch from the hook.
1) (2sc in next sc) repeat (_) around.
Sc in every sc for 19 rows.
Cut off the yarn, and pull it through the stitch. Stuff lightly, and sew securely to the side of the body, 4 on each side next to each other. You can shape the leg by folding it in half and then with a few stitches sew the bend in place.

I embroidered black lines on the body for decoration. Remember to cut off all excess yarn endings. Embroider a mouth under the nose.

 

And your Sammy Spider is ready!

Minttusuklaa

p.s. You can sell toys made from this pattern, but please don’t sell the pattern itself.

p.s.2. The pattern isn’t tested, so if you find any errors, please tell me 😊

 

sc = single crochet

ch = chain stitch

dec = decrease